We have 20+ years of experience in hydroseeding and lawn installations. We use a minimum of 8.3lbs per 1000 Sq. Ft. of seed in our applications. We use 100% wood fiber mulch. No shredded newspaper (cellulose mulch in hydroseed lingo) mulch in our tanks. Because we are fast and flexible in getting the job done. We want you to succeed so you can tell everyone who the best hydroseeding contractor is.

Quicker germination. Better moisture retention. Better seed to soil contact. A fraction of the cost of sod. ​Very uniform application. ​Helps to hold the soil in place better than dry seeding.

We drag the house around the yard because it allows us to stand directly over the surface and aim the hydroseed slurry downward in an attempt to drive the seed into the soil. This gives the best seed to soil contact and a better product overall. By working the areas in a grid pattern (similar to the way one would spray paint a car or other large surface) we focus on applying the most even application possible. Blarney hydroseeding avoids "fanning" the hydroseed over the are whenever possible. "Fanning" is when the hydroseed slurry is fanned out into the air, the mulch merely falls to the ground by gravity and is not driven into the soil.

At the very least, we need a loose surface free of existing vegetation. Soil surfaces should be loose enough that when you stand on the soil it leaves a minimum footprint 1/2" deep. Areas should be graded to avoid water puddling (puddling can affect germination). ​A minimum of 3" of quality topsoil (loam) is recommended for best results.

Measure the area length and width and multiply those together to find your square footage. Keep in mind you should take the total square footage and add 10% for any measuring errors. We will measure again when we arrive onsite or do a volume calculation after we spray. When measuring narrow sections or small spots please be generous in your measurement. The hydroseed application is much more efficient when spraying a large square area than working in small spots, that is why we ask you to measure generously. As always, we will only charge you for what we use off the truck. (this may not be possible when truck cannot be leveled out for measurements)

When hydroseed is applied it often splashes due to the fact we are attempting to drive the seed into the soil. If the slurry splashes onto any object like walkways, siding, or decking we recommend you allow the slurry to dry (typically 3-4 hours) and then use a garden house to rinse it away. Try to be careful not to apply too much water which could affect the hydroseed in that area. You can also use a brush to remove the dried slurry without water.

We recommend frequent waterings to keep the hydroseed slurry moist. Make sure there is no pooling or running of water. If water starts to pool or run the duration is too long. Try not to water in the late evening when possible.

The first blades of grass typically appear within 14 days after the hydroseed application. However, germination time will be directly affected by soil temperature, air temperature, moisture, and sunlight. The weather affects early spring and late fall spraying the most when the ground temperature falls in the evening.

​You do not need to water is you have steady rain expected for that day. Keep in mind we are trying to avoid pooling, puddling, and running of water.

You can walk on the hydroseed surface when necessary. We recommend using shoes with the smoothest tread possible. Try to walk only on areas that are dry, and try not to disturb the hydroseed mulch mat. Use caution if moving hoses not to displace the mulch mat and the seed it contains.

Be sure to check out New Hydroseed Lawn Care Sheet to be sure you have done your due diligence with watering. Consider the weather since the time the hydroseed has been applied. Was it cooler than normal? Were there multiple days of gray skies? Are you in a particularly shady area? These factors can delay germination for multiple days or even weeks. If you have carefully looked at the factors and are still concerned, please email us with your questions and we will follow up shortly.

Before you contact us, please try to get a rough (generous) measurement of the area you plan to hydroseed. Keep it simple by making rectangles out of the area even if you are overestimating. Length multiplied by width will give you square footage. Add the sections together for total square footage. Use a tape or just pace off the area. The average pace is approximately 3 feet. For example if you pace off a section that is 10 paces by 15 paces that would be 30 feet by 45 feet which is 1350 square feet. Call or text with any questions. Square or Rectangle: Multiply the width times the length. ​(Area = Width x Length)

We drag the house around the yard whenever possilbe because it allows us to stand directly over the surface and aim the hydroseed slurry downward in an attempt to drive the seed into the soil. This gives the best seed to soil contact and allows us to see that there is even coverage. This is very important in dry conditions because the product might roll and turn brown and dusty after it is sprayed which we would make it difficult to determine how evenly it was applied if we were standing 20 feet away. By working the areas in a grid pattern (similar to the way one would spray paint a car or other large surface) we focus on applying the most even application possible.

The first blades of grass may appear within 14 days after the hydroseed application. However, germination time will be directly affected by soil temperature, air temperature, moisture, and sunlight. The weather affects early spring and late fall spraying the most when the ground temperature falls in the evening.