Lawn Care Guide
Step 1: Watering
1. Watering: this section is critical to review weekly during the germination process. • DAY 1: After the lawn is first Hydroseeded, allow the mulch to dry before watering. This allows the mulch mat to cure.
• DAY 2: Hydroseeded areas should be watered a minimum of twice per day. in the morning and mid-afternoon and kept moist for 14 to 28 days to ensure optimum germination. Example times (9am & 1pm). The objective is to keep the seed moist in the warm sun to create the greenhouse effect as this will speed up germination. Slight drying between watering cycles will ensure you have not overwatered during cooler weather (early spring and late fall).
• During warmer weather or full sun areas where evaporation occurs rapidly you could step up to watering 3 times per day. Examples times might be (8am, 11am & 2pm). If you notice grass germinating in shadier areas but not in the sunnier spots you will need more water in those sunny sections because you are likely losing moisture due to evaporation.
• As the lawn matures (2-4 months depending on conditions) the goal is to reduce frequency of watering and increase length of watering cycle. Eventually you will transition to a deeper watering schedule 1-3 times per week for longer periods (possibly 20-40 min per section). Speak with a lawn care expert or search Google for more watering details.
• **In early Spring, late fall or in cooler weather please note if the hydroseed is extremely soggy in certain areas between watering sessions. This may require shortening the watering periods of those areas. DO NOT OVERWATER. NO puddles or run-off, it can displace the seed.
• **During humid weather, extra care must be taken to not allow the seed to remain wet for extended periods as this can promote fungus (Pythium blight and damping off). This may require - 2 - cutting watering back to 1-2 times per day and allowing areas to completely dry out between watering. Completely dry before sunset is important.
• Skip watering on days with substantial rain. On rainy or overcast days you might not need to water at all as long as the seed is moist. Watering in the evening should be avoided to prevent lawn fungus.
• At least once per week check and be sure all areas are properly watered. Adjust as necessary.
• Mow grass when height reaches 3 inches with sharp blades to avoid damage to the new grass. Set mower to cut at 2.25 - 2.5 inches so as not to burn the new grass by cutting too close to the ground, especially in hot weather. Leave grass slightly longer for the first season to allow for root system to become established. Never mow more than 1/3 of the blade of grass.
Step 2: Fertilizer and Weed Control
• **PLEASE READ: When your hydroseed is applied, it contains starter fertilizer to maintain the new lawn for approximately 3-5 weeks. Contact your lawn care professional and let them know when the lawn was sprayed and ask them to do a follow-up treatment (typically around 3-4 weeks). At this point it is their responsibility to maintain proper nutrition for the new grass. If they disagree with a feeding anytime between 3-5 weeks then you should consider doing it yourself or getting a second opinion. Follow-up fertilizer is based on time and nothing else according to every fertilization expert or golf course superintendent we have discussed this with.
• Do it yourself, at the 3rd or 4th week, as a homeowner you could apply a starter fertilizer: Follow the directions on the bag for application rates. There is a starter Fertilizer with Mesotrione (Meso) for weed control that is safe on new grass. Scott’s fertilizer has this available or visit our distributor Siteone Landscape Supplies (Pembroke, Wareham & Dedham). See attached sheet for examples of DIY fertilizer options.
• We do not recommend other weed control products until you have mowed at least 4 or 5 times.
• Every 4-6 weeks basic lawn food should be applied.
• After lawn is established follow a multi-step yearly fertilizer/weed control program or use a professional lawn care company.